Coffee was introduced into Kenya by French missionaries in the late 19th century.

The French brought seeds from their colony on Reunion, at that point known as the Bourbon islands. Seeds taken from these islands are the predecessor to modern Bourbon, and some very old trees in Kenya are known as French Mission Bourbon. Selections were then made from these seeds by Scottish missionaries in the 1930’s, mainly looking for drought resistance and hardiness to the tough Kenyan conditions. The Scottish Missionaries, led by Henry Scott, started Scott Laboratories, which would later become the Kenyan National Agricultural Laboratories, or NARL.

Their 28th iteration, known as SL28, became ubiquitous across Kenyan coffee lands until the advent of modern hybrid varietals. The SL28 varietal, combined with the fertile volcanic soils and high altitudes of the Mount Kenya region, leads to the archetypal Kenyan profile, with intense red fruit notes.

For most, this profile is synonymous with Kenya, but a group of younger producers are taking production to new regions, producing new profiles, expanding the perception of Kenyan coffees. Sidney Kibet is one of these, producing coffee in the west of Kenya, towards the border with Uganda.

Kiangoi

The small region in Kirinyaga that the Kiangoi mill serves, surrounding the village of Ngariama, is mainly a tea-growing area, so most of the coffee plant stock is rather new. The region is known for very high quality of both tea and coffee; being planted somewhat later than neighbouring regions means soils haven’t been tired out by years of conventional agriculture, with its sprays and chemical fertiliser. We have visited the region several times, most recently in February of this year. Here, it is clear to witness the density of both coffee and tea plantation in the lush green landscape, enabled by the rich volcanic soils, relatively undisturbed by intensive conventional agriculture.

North Eastern Kirinyaga is home to some of our favourite Kenyan coffees; Kiangoi is run by the Rungeto Farmer’s Cooperative Society, who also own the Kii and Karimikui stations, where we have purchased several lots in the past.

We visited the Rungeto team on our trip this year, meeting the board and touring each of the stations. After our visit, and after many cuppings back in Nairobi, we have continued our focus with Rungeto this year, and will share several lots from their stations in the coming months. Also near to Ngariama are the Thirikwa cooperative, who own Gakuyuini, and the New Ngariama cooperative, who own Kamwangi, Kainamui and Kiamugumo, also names very familiar to us at La Cabra. This tiny area continues to impress with its quality, much of the area was planted with coffee just before the rise of hybrid varietals in Kenya, meaning that 99% of the farmers that deliver to Kiangoi grow SL28 and SL34, with only about 1% using rust-resistant varietals like Ruiru 11 or Batian.

This lot from Kiangoi is tasting crisp and fresh, with crisp redcurrants emanating from the cup, alongside a fresh and floral hibiscus character.

Lot20

Sidney Kibet grew up in Kericho in western Kenya, but didn’t discover his love for coffee until he was living in Kigali, Rwanda, working at a software company. He became the office coffee nerd, brewing his own coffee on an Aeropress, then eventually purchasing green coffee from local producers, roasting at home and distributing to friends and family. He knew he had to combine the culture of his homeland with his love for coffee, so moved home to Kericho to start Lot20 in 2019.

This region of western Kenya is often overlooked in terms of quality coffee, traditionally serving as a filler for roasters who couldn’t secure their supply of the more revered Mount Kenya coffees. It’s also here that our long term partners Long Miles are starting their own project, capitalising on the quality potential here. Coffee was planted later in this region, starting from the 1940’s, so has less SL28, and a greater proportion of the K7 varietal alongside more modern hybrids. The profile of coffees here is rather different, with slightly lower acidity and apple or rhubarb notes, but still recognisably Kenyan.

Sidney aims for a totally new profile here, not looking to emulate Mount Kenya coffees and instead processing using a myriad of natural and experimental methods to expand the Kenyan flavour spectrum. This lot was processed at Sidney’s site in Kitale, a 4 hour drive from Kericho in the heart of western Kenya’s coffee lands.

Cherries were collected from local farmers and dried on raised beds over 20 days, leading to a ripe and rich expression of the western Kenyan profile, with notes of stewed apple and toffee.

Kenyan coffees are often some of the most flavour intense and distinctive coffees we enjoy each year, and for many hold a special place in their heart as their first big coffee experience, the moment they ‘caught the bug’. The bright currant-like fruit is so clear and memorable; each year we look forward to their arrival in the high summer, and to enjoying them at their best through to the cooler months.

We hope you enjoy both of these coffees this month, wherever you are.