Muraho
This is our fifth year working with renowned Rwandan producers Muraho Trading Co. The coffees that they produce are quite simply some of the best Rwandan lots we have tasted at La Cabra, and Gaudam and Carthick Anbalagan, the brothers that run the project, are among the most innovative producers in the country. Last summer, Gadz and Carthick were able to visit us in connection with World of Coffee in Copenhagen, sharing stories of the most recent harvest in Rwanda.
Gaudam and Carthick were brought up in Rwanda but moved to Wellington, New Zealand as teenagers. After the devastating effect that the 1994 Genocide had on the country, the brothers felt they had to return and be part of rebuilding and recovering the land they had always called home. So they left life in New Zealand behind, moved back to Rwanda, and started work on the project that became Muraho.
Since then they have gone from strength to strength, and now own several stations throughout the coffee producing regions of Rwanda, exporting coffee to some of the world’s finest roasters. They have also innovated, having been the first to produce and export naturally processed coffees from Rwanda in 2016, after lobbying for government permission for several years. In 2023, they were also the first to export varietals other than Bourbon from Rwanda, a project we’re excited to be a part of.
This month, we are sharing a returning favourite from Muraho’s Shyira station, and a first time purchase from their new Cyesha station.
Shyira
The Shyira Coffee Washing Station (CWS) is the highest altitude of the Muraho stations, located in the northern Nyabihu district. Shyira’s remote location also means it is the smallest station; a big driver in the decision to build here was the greater impact that Muraho could have on the very rural population. Here, their genuine drive for social change led to a focus on access to speciality coffee knowledge, and importantly pricing.
Over the past couple of harvests, Shyira has consistently produced our favourite lots out of Rwanda. The weather conditions here are perfect for both production and processing, the volcanic soils are healthy, and of course the high altitude leads to slow maturing, sugar-rich cherries.
This washed lot has a clear citrus acidity, backed up by a deep white sugar sweetness and the typical heavily savoury, almost musk-like floral aromatics we often find in Rwandan lots.
Cyesha
This is the first time we have purchased from Cyesha, Muraho’s newest station, only finished in time for the 2024 harvest. Cyesha lies close to Lake Kivu, and to Muraho’s Gisheke station, in the Nyamasheke region. The location in the valley also leads to a key aspect of Cyesha, something it shares with Gisheke; the perfect conditions for producing high quality natural coffees. The cool winds that flow up the valley from the lake make it possible to dry coffees in a controlled and consistent manner, meaning that Cyesha can consistently produce excellent Rwandan naturals. The aim is to start with cherries of the highest possible Brix level, a measure of the sugar content. Producers are asked to pick cherries at an increased level of ripeness, aiming for the most mature stage of harvest. This means more fuel for the fermentation, leading to increased intensity, complexity and of course sweetness in the final cup.
These cherries are first floated in order to remove low density or defective fruit, then dried on raised beds in the sun, normally taking around 30 days. Due to the powerful African sun, the coffee has to be turned almost constantly during the day, while it is covered at night to protect from condensation during the cool and humid evenings.
This leads to a heavier take on Rwanda, driven by aromatic tropical fruit and soft berries.
