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Highlights of Panama
This April, we visited Panama again, for the first time in many years. It was an incredible trip, both to re-connect with long term partners, and to see the incredible development there has been here since our last visit.
Taste the coffees at all of our own locations around the world between the 9th-13th of December.
Panama is unique as a coffee origin. The ease of access, the economic development, and the incredible reputation Panama has in the coffee industry leads to a population of growers that are as well resourced and well connected to the market as any we have met on our travels.
Visiting each farm was almost more reminiscent of a tour of vineyards in France than any other coffee origin. Beautiful cupping labs, smooth and well kept roads, and consistently excellent coffees; this experience was altogether different.
We visited many of our long term partners, of course starting with the Peterson family at Esmeralda, and the Lamastus family at Elida.
The Petersons and the Lamastus are some of the founding fathers behind the Speciality Coffee Association of Panama, the organisation responsible for the advancement of Panamanian coffee on the world stage; at world championships, Panama Geisha booths at trade shows, and the annual flagship ‘Best of Panama’ quality competition. Both families have been driving forces behind Panama’s discovery and continuing success in the top end of the coffee market.
It was no surprise that both Elida and Esmeralda delivered on the cupping table, with set after set of consistently incredible quality. We were lucky enough to be present while both were in the final stages of selecting their entries for the 2024 Best of Panama, so were able to taste some truly stunning lots. From these cuppings, we selected one washed and one natural Geisha from each of these iconic farms, testaments to the archetypal Panama Geisha profile, with complex and perfumed floral aromatics, pin-sharp balance, and crystal clear notes in the cup, remaining crisp, sharp and floral low into the temperature range.
We also met two projects new to the La Cabra lineup, examples of the incredible pace of innovation we have seen in Panama over the past few years.
Hunter Tedman uses his years of experience from other projects on his farm Black Moon, a neighbour to Elida in Alto Quiel, high in the mountains above Boquete. Hunter uses regenerative agriculture methods, carefully curating fungal and microbial populations for optimal soil health, even keeping sheep on the farm as a natural method of weed control and nutrient dispersal. From Hunter we have purchased a beautifully crisp washed Geisha with a jasmine white tea character, and a naturally processed Chiroso, the varietal and process with which he won the 2024 Best of Panama varietals category. Chiroso betrays it’s Ethiopian roots here with a unique aromatic profile, while the tropical fruit notes are enhanced by the process, almost reminiscent of fresh ripe coffee fruit.
The final project was Lost Origin, by Franz Zeimetz. Franz comes from a wholly different background, based in Panama City, where he is a beer brewer and expert in fermentation.
Each harvest season, Franz buys top quality Geisha cherries from producers in the western highlands, and has them transported back to his brewery in the city in refrigerated trucks. The cherries are then processed under some of the most exacting conditions we have seen, using inoculated yeasts, surgically clean stainless steel fermentation tanks, and carefully controlled drying rooms. Franz’s applies his expertise in fermentation with aplomb; we have purchased three unique lots from him for this event. The first is a natural Geisha, showcasing fruity cacao nib notes and heavier florals, followed by two contrasting washed lots. One is a long fermentation, yeast inoculated lot, with layered notes soft melon and white peach, while the other is more traditional with zero yeast added and a shorter fermentation, leading to a more traditional Geisha profile of orange blossom, apricot and soft oolong.
