Roberto Ulloa
Roberto Ulloa is one of the most genuine, driven and passionate people we have come across on our coffee travels. He has twice hosted us at La Divina Providencia, making the early drive out of San Salvador to the Apaneca Ilamatepec mountain range in the west of El Salvador. The valley in which La Divina sits is mainly of volcanic origin, and is strikingly beautiful. Lago de Coatepeque, a natural lake formed in the crater of a former volcano, looms in the distance as the road climbs up to the farm, becoming rougher and less defined as it winds its way up the steep slopes of the Santa Ana volcano. Arriving in the deep forest cover of La Divina is calm and tranquil compared to the drama and noise of the journey, and allows a chance to survey and absorb the surroundings.
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La Divina Providencia
The farm has expanded over the intervening years, mainly planting extra SL28 and Red Bourbon trees, while Roberto was excited to show us expanded numbers of Geisha and Pacamara trees last year compared to our previous visit. The SL28 planted in this part of El Salvador originates from the early days of coffee cultivation in the country, when much of the industry was controlled by a small number of powerful families. Several of them returned from a safari trip to Kenya in the early 20th century with seeds that resembled Bourbon, but had some unique characteristics. Most of the SL28 in the west of El Salvador is descended from these seeds, which is thought to pre-date the final selection of SL28, so is often referred to as ‘Kenya Bourbon’.
This lot was dried directly on raised beds for 30 days, leading to a complex flavour profile with bright red berry notes up front from the varietal, followed up by sweet brown sugar, tropical fruit and vanilla enhanced by the process.
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