

Bette Buna
Bette Buna was founded by Dawit and Hester Syoum in 2020. Hester is originally from the Netherlands; she and Dawit met while they were working together in Ethiopia for an NGO. Dawit has a long family history in coffee, having grown up in Sidamo around his grandparents farm. His grandparents had always been seen as leaders in the community, so when they died, he and Hester took over the family farm, continuing the farm’s legacy as a safe haven for all, where all neighbours could feel at home. Hester and Dawit brought their experience in capacity building with communities across Ethiopia, and began to build Bette Buna, Amharic for ‘the house of coffee’, as a project to make a real difference for the community that surrounds the farm in Taferi Kela, Sidamo.
-(1)-v1755165020494.jpg?900x1125)
Megadu
This lot is from Hester and Dawit’s newer project in Guji, near the village of Megadu, in the Shakiso sub-region. This area is densely forested; coffee has grown here for centuries, both wild and cultivated. Although Guji is just across the border from Dawit’s home region of Sidamo, the culture here is rather different, so Bette Buna allied with two local community leaders to start their project, on 220 hectares of land just outside Megadu.
Hester and Dawit currently administer 50 hectares of the land, and process coffees from the wider plot and from neighbours for export. For some community members, they have even built small drying facilities on their land, or organised them into groups to share a miniature drying station. Each farmer also receives training on cherry selection, quality and drying. This capacity building allows producers to take more control of their supply chain, building a more finished product and allowing them access to the speciality market.
-v1755165023024.jpg?900x1350)
A community project
This particular lot is composed of cherries from the entire farm, both from Bette Buna’s and from community leaders’ Duba and Saffay sections. There is also a small component from local producers who have been part of the capacity building programme. This leads to a ripe and full-bodied profile with brown sugar, blackberry jam and some subtle florals.
Ethiopia
In Ethiopia, coffee still grows semi-wild, and in some cases completely wild. Apart from some regions of neighbouring South Sudan, Ethiopia is the only country in which coffee is found growing in this way, due to its status as the genetic birthplace of arabica coffee. This means in many regions, small producers still harvest cherries from wild coffee trees growing in high altitude humid forests, especially around Ethiopia’s famous Great Rift Valley.
Forest coffee makes up a great deal of Ethiopia’s yearly output, so this is a hugely important method of production, and part of what makes Ethiopian coffee so unique. Deforestation is threatening many of coffee’s iconic homes in Ethiopia, leading to dwindling yields and loss of biodiversity; significant price fluctuations over the past decade have led many farmers to replace coffee with fast growing eucalyptus, an incredibly demanding crop in terms of both water and nutrient usage.
-v1755165025419.jpg?1200x960)
Throughout these endemic systems, a much higher level of biodiversity is maintained than in modern coffee production in much of the rest of the world. This is partly due to the forest system, and partly down to the genetic diversity of the coffee plants themselves. There are thousands of ‘heirloom’ varieties growing in Ethiopia; all descended from wild cross pollination between species derived from the original Arabica trees. This biodiversity leads to hardier coffee plants, which don’t need to be artificially fertilised.
This means that 95% of coffee production in Ethiopia is organic, although most small farmers and mills can’t afford to pay for certification, so can’t label their coffee as such. The absence of monoculture in the Ethiopian coffee lands also means plants are much less susceptible to the decimating effects of diseases such as leaf rust that have ripped through other producing countries.
Maintaining these systems is important, both within the context of the coffee industry, and for wider biodiversity and sustainability.