Rituals subscription
Every month we aim to illustrate core concepts in the world of coffee, showcasing two distinct varietals from the same farm, contrasting experiences from the same region, or an in-depth look at processing techniques. This month we are focussing on the finest Brazilian coffees we can get our hands on, from our trusted partners Fabiano Diniz and Daterra.
This month, you have the opportunity to include a box of Laurina in your first subscription order, this limited lot we purchased from Daterra's Masterpieces series.
Daterra
This is the seventh year we have bought coffees from Daterra, based not far from Patrocinio, in the Cerrado Mineiro region of Brazil. Their story stretches back to 1908, when they started as a small family business. A young Italian couple emigrated to Brazil, selling the coffee they grew on their own small farm. After years of work, they decided they had to diversify their family business to survive, opening a small gas station.
Over the next half century, they built a successful auto parts business, eventually one of the largest in Brazil. When it was time for Donato Pascoal, the eldest son, to retire in 1976, he decided to reinvest in the industry that had sparked his parents’ passion so long ago. Donato wanted to create a new and modern approach to Brazilian coffee agriculture, setting a template decades ahead of its time.
Responsibility
Daterra, meaning ‘from the earth’, is made up of two farms just a short drive apart, Boa Vista and Tabuoes. Much care was taken to preserve the native flora and fauna of the Cerrado Mineiro, one of the most biodiverse regions of Brazil, in an attempt to farm collaboratively with nature rather than trying to control it.
All of this meant that as Daterra grew, they became the first Rainforest Alliance certified farm in Brazil, and continued to take their environmental responsibilities seriously. They have protected native forest ‘paths’ running between the swathes of natural reserve on the farm, allowing safe passage for wildlife.
On our most recent visit in November 2022 this was clear, with a myriad of wildlife all across the farm. Daterra continue to pioneer new levels of quality control in Brazil, using modern agro-technology alongside ancient techniques to consistently create high quality lots.
Impressive control
As harvest season starts, measurements are taken on each plot on the farm; cherry brix, moisture levels and several soil parameters. When the conditions are correct, the plot is harvested mechanically. Mechanical harvesting can lead to greater instability and inconsistency in the cup, as underripe and overripe beans make their way into the lot. However, Daterra’s impressive quality control system negates this risk with a host of sorting machines, both pre- and post- processing.
Anaerobic Laurina
Recently they have also been experimenting with new varietals and processing methods in order to create extraordinary flavour experiences, while still maintaining their incredible level of consistency and quality control. This has led to international recognition, including a World Brewer’s Cup title in 2018 with a rare Laurina varietal processed using an experimental carbonic maceration process.
This lot, of the same varietal, was processed using that same method in the late summer of 2023. Full cherries are placed into sealed stainless steel tanks equipped with one-way valves. This means that when the coffee starts to ferment and CO2 is produced, the lighter oxygen is pushed out from the top of the tank, creating an anaerobic environment. This leads to a dominant enzymatic and lacto-bacterial fermentation in place of a yeast-driven fermentation.
This process was previously dubbed Semi-Carbonic Maceration after the winemaking technique that inspired it, but through their years of experience, Daterra have now concluded that minimal maceration takes place. The small, hard coffee cherries are much more difficult to crush than grapes, so the prime factor in shaping the cup profile is the low oxygen environment.
This leads to the lactic character in the cup, with a creamy, almost dairy-like feel. Together with the floral and bright notes from the Laurina, this creates a beautifully balanced cup, with floral aromas followed by citrus in the cup, balanced by a deep stewed fruit sweetness.
