

Testi Coffee
The Yaye Washing Station was built in 2021 by Testi Coffee. We have visited Testi twice on our trips to Addis Ababa after harvest, spending time with founder Faysel Abdosh and his son Fahmi. Fahmi is young and eager to learn, always happy to talk coffee quality and trends in the industry. Yaye is one of the crown jewels of Testi’s project, with immaculate washing facilities, and the organisation and capacity to keep separation of small lots throughout the process.

Workers at the station wash their hands and all processing equipment thoroughly before coffee passes through. The team at Testi estimates that this can reduce green coffee defects by up to 40%, reducing the instance of bacteria and fungus that can be harmful to native fermentations.

Yaye
This specific lot is an example of Testi’s separation through processing, a collaboration between Testi and their import partner Cafe Imports. All the cherries for this lot were collected from within 10 km of the station, between 2150 and 2300 masl, and all the farmers involved have been identified as growing the 74158 classification of heirloom varietals. 74158 is a classification from the Jimma Agricultural Research Centre or JARC, who distribute seeds to thousands of farmers across Ethiopia. This means that this lot has a dominance of 74158 genetics, although true single varietal lots are difficult to ensure in Ethiopia.
When the cherries arrive at Yaye, they are sorted carefully to ensure an even ripeness, and to remove defective or underripe fruit. A portion of overripe cherry is allowed to move forward in the process, to add intensity to the final cup. The cherries are then dried under shade, extending the drying time to over 4 weeks.
This results in intense flavours of jammy red fruit, red wine and dark chocolate, lifted by violet and jasmine florals.
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Ethiopia
In Ethiopia, coffee still grows semi-wild, and in some cases completely wild. Apart from some regions of neighbouring South Sudan, Ethiopia is the only country in which coffee is found growing in this way, due to its status as the genetic birthplace of arabica coffee. This means in many regions, small producers still harvest cherries from wild coffee trees growing in high altitude humid forests, especially around Ethiopia’s famous Great Rift Valley.
Forest coffee makes up a great deal of Ethiopia’s yearly output, so this is a hugely important method of production, and part of what makes Ethiopian coffee so unique. Deforestation is threatening many of coffee’s iconic homes in Ethiopia, leading to dwindling yields and loss of biodiversity; significant price fluctuations over the past decade have led many farmers to replace coffee with fast growing eucalyptus, an incredibly demanding crop in terms of both water and nutrient usage.

Throughout these endemic systems, a much higher level of biodiversity is maintained than in modern coffee production in much of the rest of the world. This is partly due to the forest system, and partly down to the genetic diversity of the coffee plants themselves. There are thousands of ‘heirloom’ varieties growing in Ethiopia; all descended from wild cross pollination between species derived from the original Arabica trees. This biodiversity leads to hardier coffee plants, which don’t need to be artificially fertilised.
This means that 95% of coffee production in Ethiopia is organic, although most small farmers and mills can’t afford to pay for certification, so can’t label their coffee as such. The absence of monoculture in the Ethiopian coffee lands also means plants are much less susceptible to the decimating effects of diseases such as leaf rust that have ripped through other producing countries.
Maintaining these systems is important, both within the context of the coffee industry, and for wider biodiversity and sustainability.
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